• Véronique Dessaint

A linen panel with cotton embroidery inlays

1) Fine linen warping

2) What exactly is a chain?

3) Assembly of a 100% linen chain

4) A panel with cotton linen with inlays

5) Fringe with pearls/beads

Fine linen warping

Warping carried out with the warping machine of my rigid comb loom, the chain is a total of 5.50 m long for 600 threads, on the penultimate photo we see the rake and the sticks of encroix

The thread used is a linen thread which is 17000 m per kilo, 1 strand

What exactly is a chain?

I have often asked myself the question to know why the threads stretched from front to back of the loom has woven and fixed on the back beam is called the CHAIN. On the photo we can clearly see the links of a chain, which are waiting to be fixed on the loom

This chain is obtained during warping, when the threads are removed from the warping machine and positioning them in a chain allows them to not get tangled during the various positioning operations on the loom. When the warping is finished, you have to take it out of the warping machine and to do this take a loop from one end, slip the bundle of threads into the loop to make a new loop and so on until the end. end of the bundle of threads, when the chain is put on the loom, the loops will come undone by themselves as the threads pass over the rear beam


Assembly of a 100% linen chain

The fine linen chain is mounted, and stretched, weaving can be done without difficulty, normally but here is the chain is pure linen and very fine, a sewing thread. Linen has the particularity of being brittle, the warp thread has broken several times. The linen thread is rigid, it has no elasticity unlike wool which can relax by 30% which means that errors in tension and on 5 m of warp, it can have will have repercussions on the weaving , in other words, the thread that is not tight enough will separate from the other threads in the chain

I mounted my chain of 600 threads or 60 cm, 2 threads per bit with a comb of 12 threads per inch, in cm this gives about 10 threads per cm although this is not yet enough, it would have been necessary to alternate 2 and 3 threads to get the correct density per cm, but I wanted a light and airy fabric.

First mistake I have white threads and a white thread, I mounted the threading of the threads several times, I should have put colored threads as markers for example since the threading was initially 1234/4321 / 1234/4321, I should have done 123 4/4 321/123 4/4 321

Unfortunately, I did not have enough threads for my 600 threads with this re-entry, I had to start all over and do a re-entry 1234/321/234/321, but again colored yarns would have helped me and the difficulties would not not stop there, more in another post

There is another method when we have a united chain is to tie the threads in bundles or blocks for example block 1234/4321 we tie the 8 threads together not too tightly otherwise we can no longer untie them, then with the 8 threads following we do the same, this allows in case of error to be able to control more easily


A panel with cotton linen with inlays

My mounted linen chain, I will have to use it, for a first test I opted for the method of inlays with an embroidery thread.

The inlays are done by adding thread and tucking the thread back and forth according to a precise or abstract pattern as is the case here. The stitch used can be the canvas stitch in this case we pass the shuttle through the thread pick at the bottom and behind the thread to be encrusted according to its pattern, then chain threads at the top we pass the shuttle again and immediately the thread to encrust, we continue like this until the end of the pattern

If the inlays are well done, the fabric keeps the same length and width throughout the work

The beads are used to ballast the panel which is very light, I had tested a different method which was not conclusive


Fringe with pearls/beads

To change up a bit from simple fringes, and to give some weight to a piece (or some drape) beaded fringes are an acceptable solution. Here I've used stone beads mounted on a fine linen thread. However, it doesn't solve the problem of the knot to fasten the fringe. For now, I haven't found the ideal solution.


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